Time
2023-06-14
Description
I: Okay, thank you. Let’s continue with another photo having registration number 2018_18379_1. Please look and tell us what is it?
R: It looks like a Khanga or Kitenge eeeh! And this kind of Khanga was worn by the wives of the Zumbe, the wife of the Jumbe.
I: Wife of the Zumbe?
R: The older ones
I: The older ones, eeh!
R: Because at that time it was only ‘vimarekani’. When you wrapped yourself with ‘kimarekani’, those were the clothes of that time.
I: How does the ‘kimarekani’ look like?
R: These ones are good, that old 'marekani' was a kind of white fabric with thick threads. Now they have been improved. If someone gave you a piece to wrap around your neck, those clothes were for the wives of the elite like the Wajumbe.
I: Wajumbe?
R: Eeeeh!
I: That kind of cloth for the wives of the Jumbe, did it have a special name?
R: They were called the Wives of Zumbe's clothes.
I: Wives of the Zumbe's clothes?
R: Eeeeh, the Zumbe's wives’ clothes.
I: Which communities used to wear them?
R: The Sambaa
I: The Sambaa?
R: Eeeeh!
I: When did the Wake Zumbe wear such clothes?
R: They wore them when going out, maybe there was a celebration like a wedding at the chief Jumbe’s home eeeh! Even court cases were resolved by the Jumbes and Wake Zumbe. That is, the wife of the Jumbe was also considered a Jumbe.
I: She was also a Jumbe?
R: Eeeeh! If you wore Wake Zumbe’s clothes, you were respected because only influential people wore them.
I: You were highly respected?
R: Eeeeh!
I: So they used to wear them during court case resolutions?
R: Eeeeh!
I: Okay, is that kind of clothing still in use today?
R: Nowadays everyone wears Wake Zumbe’s clothes hahahha!
I: Okay, so were these clothes only used for special events or also for resolving disputes as you said?
R: That’s right — for dispute resolutions and for their social functions. People used to celebrate together, and they had to wear their best clothes for different ceremonies.
I: Okay, for attending these special events, what other clothes did the Wake Zumbe wear alongside this one?
R: They would wrap with one and wear another underneath — like normal inner clothes.
I: What kind of clothes were worn underneath before wrapping this one?
R: Mostly chest cloths — the long dresses came later. They used to wear chest or waist cloths and then wrap over them.
I: Did those clothes have specific names?
R: It was just called a dress or t-shirt
I: Nothing else?
R: There were very few clothes. We grew up just wrapping Khanga over our shoulders and doing everything that way eeeh!
I: Okay, who used to make these clothes specifically for the Wake Zumbe?
R: I think there were experts because every craft has its professionals. Not everyone could make Wake Zumbe clothes — they had special tailors eeeh!
I: During colonial rule, do you think they were made locally or imported?
R: They made them themselves
I: Can you tell us what materials they used?
R: During the colonial era, they used leather
I: Leather?
R: Their clothes were made of leather
I: From which animals?
R: There were many animals back then, unlike now. You could find various animals just behind the house. Now they’re not many.
I: This looks decorated — how did they do the decorations?
R: They used wooden stamps. They would hit them to create the marks and decorations they wanted.
I: So they used leather?
R: Eeeeh!
I: Wake Zumbe?
R: Eeeeh!
source: Amani-Stade Project / Amani Field Research 2023, Interview No. 18
author: I: Mohamed Seif, R: Anonymous
Person
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National Institute for Medical Research (NIMR)
(Client)
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unknown actor
(wissenschaftlicheR BearbeiterIn)
Place